“You can take the girl out of the country, but you can’t take the country out of the girl” once struck me as ridiculous. Growing up in Kansas and now living the life of a contemporary career woman in Dallas, I think the only time I refer to the word “country” is when I’m discussing foreign travel or the latest article in Town and Country magazine. My stay at Montpelier, however, proved that there might be a grain of truth to this age-old expression.

Approaching the 18th century estate felt as if I had stepped back in time. The branches of a massive Ficus tree grandly summoned me to enter the 30-acre former sugar plantation and revel in simpler pleasures. No TV, town nightlife, or rigorous schedule to mar my quest for complete rejuvenation and my escape from the chaos. Following the torches that flickered off the stone-walled exterior, I entered a warmly lit room where the staff proved even more welcoming. I immediately sensed the informal hospitality that I would later deem customary at Montpelier.

The estate’s historical stone sugar mill and plantation house Great Room provide a unique setting for this 17-room Caribbean retreat on the tiny island of Nevis. While the pace is relaxed, Montpelier maintains a certain British refinement. Furnished in elegant comfort with antiques and tropical touches, the Great Room, Bamboo Ballroom and terrace area is the living room for guests to enjoy each other and gracious plantation style living. Surrounded by tropical flowers, majestic trees, and breathtaking territorial views out to the sea, each cottage is furnished differently and has a veranda, queen or king-sized bed, tiled bath, phone, safe, ceiling fan, hair dryer and tea and coffee service. The suite offers a separate living room with a sofa bed in addition to a king bedroom, complete bathroom and large patio.

Another property “amenity” was the owners’ set of yellow Labradors, Calypso and Rudder. Trained not to enter the common areas, their presence evokes a familiarity that can only be created by a family pet. My first day I decided to play a little tennis on Montpelier’s tennis courts and I saw Calypso sitting quietly in the shade. In his mouth he held a tennis ball as if inviting me to play doubles. I was running a few minutes early so I obliged. Taking the ball from his mouth, he wagged his tail in anticipation. Throwing the ball into the open field I suddenly realized that the last time I had done this was in Kansas with my dog, Brownie. The sweet memory made me smile.

Don’t get me wrong, I wasn’t ready to click my sparkly red shoes together and dance with tin men and scarecrows. Playing golf on the championship course at The Four Seasons and lounging around Montpelier’s large hilltop pool still had greater appeal than playing with the on-site Toto.

Other activities extended to guests include hikes to the top of Saddle Hill, and tours of Charlestown where one can learn historical tidbits, such as the marriage of famous British Admiral Horatio Nelson and local resident, Fanny Nesbit. It’s only a 20-minute shuttle ride to the inn’s private, sandy and secluded beach. Complete with lounge chairs, palapas, watersport options, a changing room and restroom. It’s the perfect seaside setting for a staff-packed picnic lunch.

Executive Chef Mark Roberts and his staff have made Montpelier the best dining experience on the island. Just ask any local resident and they will tell you. From breakfast to afternoon tea, to the soft-lit romantic dinners on the terrace, all the local and continental cuisine features fresh, natural ingredients to delight every taste bud. The full-continental breakfast features homemade breads and jam, fresh fruit, cereal, eggs and pancakes. Lunch entrees include salads made with greens from their garden, lobster, local fish and pasta dishes. The Pool Bar serves light fare, drinks and snacks daily. A grand English tradition of afternoon tea is best observed here on Nevis at the Pool Bar every day 3:30-5:00 PM.

Over cocktails, I chatted with some of the other guests before the one-sitting dinner at 8:00 PM. Served outside on the veranda at candlelit tables for two, each evening three entrees are offered as well as appetizers and desserts. I suggest beginning with Caribbean pumpkin soup garnished with croutons and cream, or sea bass jewels crusted with almonds. Then move to a local seafood entree such as marinated tuna or try the mustard crusted grilled veal chop. Save room for dessert of passion fruit sorbet, a coconut tart with walnut ice cream, or indulge in a Bailey’s mousse with white chocolate shavings and a chocolate orange truffle sauce. After dinner I usually retreated to the Great Room for an aperitif, while guests enjoyed fine cigars and a friendly challenge in the game room.

My last evening at Montpelier I called Calypso to join me atop the antique stone cistern, which had become my favorite vantage point to watch the sunset. Stroking the soft tuft of fur behind his floppy ears, I stood hypnotized by the tranquil horizon. Perfectly framed by the fronds of Royal Palms and neatly matted by the lush rolling hillsides, the view looked like a painted masterpiece. An overwhelming wave of nostalgia washed over me. Visions of a content childhood flashed through my mind; freshly baked cookies, my grandmother, riding my bicycle on a deserted country road. Suddenly the light reflecting off of the water’s surface transformed into a giant field of golden wheat, ready for harvest. I turned to Calypso and said, “Maybe there’s some truth to that old expression after all.” After checking my watch I quickly spun around on the back of my heels to head back to the Great Room. It was time for Champagne.