I was so excited to be heading off to Antigua. Whenever I visited the Caribbean, I asked fellow travelers to tell me their favorite destination and their favorite hotel. Over the years, many answered Antigua and Curtain Bluff. So now that I’d boarded the plane on my way to the island in the sun, I had high expectations and a little fear too. What if it didn’t measure up? I had heard Curtain Bluff is a little on the formal side with a dress code, but the food and service are unsurpassed. I like the typical “Caribbean casual” atmosphere found at many resorts, but I was ready to experience a luxury all-inclusive. Too many all-inclusive resorts have left me standing in buffet lines spooning up warmed over food served by uninterested, inattentive staff. I was ready for something special.

Curtain Bluff was, in a word: impressive. But that’s not all. One word just won’t do it. Starting with my arrival, I was called by name. I had a drink delivered to my room as I was escorted through lush tropical grounds covered with swaying palm trees, and was introduced to the friendliest staff you’d find anywhere along the way. Caribbean hotel staffs have a reputation for being unfriendly or quiet, which makes many visitors think they are aloof. I was overwhelmed at the genuine caring exhibited by this staff; they actually enjoy their jobs. What is the secret ingredient? An owner and staff that take pride in serving guests and devote their entire careers to making each person feel at home, leaving no wish unfulfilled. How do you find employees like this? You don’t hire them—you raise them, and they become part of the family.

When Howard Hulford started Curtain Bluff over 40 years ago, he also started the Old Road Fund to help educate local kids and teach them skills to help them get better jobs on an island where the number one industry is tourism. The result is that 90% of the staff at Curtain Bluff are educated by the fund and consider Curtain Bluff their first and only employer. It shows. Employees like Cal, the General Manager. Cal told me when he was a small boy and Howard first moved to Antigua, Cal used to throw rocks at Howard’s MG convertible. Island kids had never seen an MG convertible and not many white men either. Today, Cal’s three kids have gone to college because of the Old Road Fund and Cal worked his way up to manager. Truth is all the staff worked their way up, starting in the kitchen washing dishes. The hospitality experience is overflowing and heartfelt, making guests feel comfortable and relaxed. The result is a very high repeat guest percentage and almost no staff turnover, a win-win for everyone.

So what’s the place like? Well, it’s set on its own peninsula overlooking the southern coastline of Antigua, giving you that “I’m on my own private island” feel. It’s elegant but comfortable, and fosters a relaxed atmosphere, not stuffy at all. It’s not your grandpa’s resort, and you don’t have to dress up fancy—just a collared shirt and long pants for men at dinner, a tropical dress or pants for ladies. Leave the flip-flops on the beach, squeeze those tootsies into some shoes and be prepared to have your socks (if you’ve got them on) knocked off by the all-inclusive meals. No buffet lines here—I made my selections off an incredible menu each night.

All of the 72 rooms face the ocean with cooling breezes, so no AC is necessary, just ceiling fans. I’m used to sleeping with AC and wondered if I’d be comfortable. The breezes and ocean sounds are constantly coming through the large screened doors, cooling not only at night, but during the day as well. This was an authentic Caribbean experience, no artificial cooling needed. My room was spacious, comfortably furnished with a king bed, wood and rattan furniture, phones and Internet connection, live plants—it’s immaculately clean of course, and has an adjoining tile and marble bathroom with a big soaking tub I’d kill for at home. The refrigerator in the room was empty, but I just told the bartender how I wanted it stocked, and presto—it was full. Every room has a balcony or patio where I savored a mouth-watering breakfast after my first night in Antigua. That was such a treat, to have a leisurely, private breakfast on my own terrace with breathtaking views of the ocean. I felt like a king! Oh, and this was just the beginning.

The next few days were jam packed with activities, from world-class tennis on four lighted courts with three pros available to help perfect your game, to unlimited water sports. I must have been a fish in another life; I gravitate to the water like metal to a magnet. The Curtain Bluff beach is one of the 365 beaches said to ring Antigua’s shores, and it was fabulous. I wanted to feel the soft sand squishing between my toes as I moseyed along the water’s edge. But you can’t keep me out of the ocean for long, so I donned mask, snorkel and fins, and soon I was floating in a balmy sea over brilliant tropical fish and glittering white sand. Other guests were content to spend time at the pool, in a hammock or lounge chair under a palapa on the beach with Carlos tending to their beverage needs. There’s that wonderful service again. I’ll join them after I play on the sun float, try once again to windsurf, kayak around the point, water-ski, and tack across the bay in a Sunfish Sailboat till the wind dies down—just another tough day in paradise. The staff can arrange deep-sea fishing, scuba diving, golf, and charter sailing; all are available nearby.

If the pool, beach and tennis aren’t enough, how about relaxing with a morning yoga session on the patio next to the fitness center with a killer ocean view. What a way to start the day. I felt the need to keep in touch with reality, although I don’t know why—so I paid a visit to the TV/Internet room above the tennis shop just to check email and get a quick glimpse of the news—that was enough to send me scurrying back down to the beach for an umbrella drink and a look at the lunch menu at the beachside restaurant.

Eating—I love to do it, especially when someone else is doing the cooking. Well, this culinary experience rivals the best. Live music every night with dinner. I found myself luxuriating in the flawless service: the water glass was never left near empty, no long pauses during the five-course dinner, attention to every detail, and superb, tasty choices on a surprisingly cosmopolitan menu. I am sure the reason my shorts felt tight is the Lobster Bisque; I ate a bucket full. I savored appetizers such as Baby Conch with Wasabi Butter and Creole Crab Cakes, Caesar Salad, and entrees like Sesame Crusted Yellowfin Tuna, Beef Tenderloin en Brioche, Rack of Lamb with herb-bread crust; and of course, I always saved room for dessert. The ice cream and sorbet were fine, but the Pi?a Colada Torte and coconut flavored Cr?me Brul?e melted in my mouth. A nightly walk along the beach was a necessity after indulging like that.

George, the wine steward, manages a wine collection at Curtain Bluff that would put many top wine cellars to shame. George knows wine. He speaks French and Spanish, travels to Europe several times a year on buying trips, and lead me on a tour through an unbelievably spacious wine cellar. With over 25,000 bottles, including many rare French wines, first and second vintages, and wines from Italy, Australia, Spain and the US, this cellar is considered the best in the Caribbean.

I met Howard and the other guests during the weekly cocktail party at his home on top of the hill as we watched the fiery sun set into the Caribbean Sea. I overheard a couple say it was their 10th year coming to Curtain Bluff. Wow. That speaks volumes about this resort and the staff. Many guests from Europe and the US that I talked with during my stay said they had been here before and plan to come back again. The comfortable, family-like atmosphere permeates every nook and cranny of Curtain Bluff. No wonder guests keep coming back; this resort is like a fine first vintage wine, getting better as time goes by.

All too soon my visit to Antigua was over, I was back in the states, and my shorts were still too tight. Bottom line: This all-inclusive resort certainly measured up, meeting all my expectations and then some. My earlier fears were unfounded. Howard and the staff at Curtain Bluff have mastered the art of providing impeccable service in a relaxed, elegantly casual atmosphere. With unrivaled food and service like this, Curtain Bluff goes to the top of my list of Caribbean luxury resorts.